Anysoldclunker, there comes a time when we all need to sell our well-loved automobiles. When the rubber hits the road, most of us would like to sell sooner rather than later, and at minimal cost. Besides, keeping lots of cash tied up in a clunker isn’t exactly a fun ride for anyone’s wallet.

To help you get your motor running and your car off the lot, I’ve put together this little 5-Step Guide to help you sell your car sooner and still score some cash from the deal. (For buyers, see How To Buy a Used Car.) Here’s how to sell your used auto using free online car classifieds:

1. Get Your Facts Right

I’ve bought a few used cars in my lifetime, and what turns me off faster than a dead battery is when the owner doesn’t know squat about the car they’re selling.

What’s the mileage? How often was the oil changed? Did your kid ever pee in the back seat?

This is all important stuff to know. And you’d better get your facts straight and your battery recharged before inviting prospective buyers over to take your ride for a spin. Knowing your vehicle inside and out is a sure-fire way to instill confidence in a buyer and entice them to drive away with your deal.

Here’s a list of features to know:

• year, make, model, trim level
• mileage on vehicle
• average gas mileage (see Gas Mileage Calculator for help)
• maintenance records
• mechanic’s contact number
• accident history
• power features (windows, locks, mirrors)
• tire wear, winter tires, rims
• air conditioning, heating features
• transmission (auto, manual)
• fuel type (gas, diesel)
• air bags
• stereo system features
• sunroof, moon roof
• interior/exterior condition
• VIN number (buyers may want to run a CARFAX)

Tip: If you’re not sure about your car’s features, then take a look at the owner’s manual. Chances are all the marketable features are listed in the index. Big love to all technical writers.

Check out the Gas Efficient Car Calculator to see if your current used car measures up to a newer model or cut your fuel consumption using these 10 Ways to Save Money on Gas.

Also, think about your ideal buyer — who is most likely to buy such a car? A new driver, a family, a single person, or a senior? Get your facts right to market your ride to the ideal buyer and watch them drive away with a smile.

2. Price Your Car Right

Yes, you probably love your car and have had some good times driving it around town. Butt (with two t’s) sentimental value doesn’t translate into a sale. Cars are not priced based on your emotional attachment, they are priced based on value to the buyer.

So how do you set the price right to get your car to move? Easy. Grab your used car feature list and surf on over to a bevy of beautiful internet web sites. Online classified sites like Kelley Blue Book, Craigslist, Kijiji, and even Ebay can give you some serious insight into the going rates on comparable vehicles.

Doing your homework by researching both the online and local newspaper classifieds is the way to roll before pricing your ride. When you’ve found the right price range for your car’s make, model, and year, be sure to factor these features into your selling price:

• Mileage: less distance equals more dollars.
• Condition: is the interior clean or stained and is the roof rusted?
• Special features: dog fur is not a special feature, but heated seats are a win for winter climates.

Other important factors that determine your car’s selling price are: gas mileage (how much does it cost to fill the tank and how far can you go?), vehicle location (a winter-driven car may not last as long), and who the driver was. Lady driven vehicles seem to market well, but it could also mean that the clutch is kaput. Yep, I’m a lady driver and I’ve killed a clutch. Expensive lesson learned.

Before settling on your selling price, make note of any mechanical or cosmetic upgrades and raise your price realistically. Is your vehicle still under warranty, does it come with upgraded rims, a rebuilt engine, a new transmission, a snazzy paint job, custom heated seats, or is the interior freshly detailed? Always keep this paperwork handy with all receipts and show all prospective buyers the goods.

Lastly, once you’ve found a fair price, go ahead and boost it by a hundred or two. Giving your buyers some negotiating room makes everyone feel good.

3. Write a Killer Online Classified

A well written advertisement has the power to sell your car, fast. Zoom! Plus, crafting a great classified the first time will help you target prospective buyers, saving you time by dealing with only relevant callers and emailers. A poorly written online classified won’t compete well with similarly listed vehicles.

5 Used Car Classifieds Do’s:

Write your classified ad right to sell your used auto fast.

1. Get the title right. Put your car’s make, model, year, price, and mileage in the title. Get qualified interest from the start.
2. List the selling features. Remember that list of features from earlier? Include these selling points in your classified ad.
3. Put your buyer in the driver’s seat. Describe who the perfect driver is for your used car. For example: A real gas miser of a car, perfect for a budget conscious driver or a student. Four wheel drive keeps you going in the cold, snowy winter months.
4. Set negotiating terms. If the price is firm, then say so. Used car classifieds often use these terms to describe pricing: firm, obo (or best offer), negotiable, and must sell.
5. Post a pretty photo. Classified ads with photos help buyers connect to the car. Take clear shots of the exterior and interior to show the goods. And only post clear shots. Photos snapped on a cloudy day have less glare.

5 Used Car Classifieds Don’ts:

Watch out for these big mistakes when writing auto classifieds.

1. Don’t list multiple ads with different prices. Want to weaken the sale, undermine trust, and confuse the heck out of shoppers? Then list multiple ads across many used car classified sites and ask for different prices.
2. Don’t photograph a messy car. Mess happens, but don’t post a photo if your car is dirty, filled with crap, or covered in dog hair. Get your car detailed or clean the car yourself.
3. Don’t lie. Don’t waste buyer’s time by trying to hide minor accidents, mechanical failures, or baby barf. If buyer’s take a whiff of a stinky CARFAX report, your deal is done. Misrepresenting the truth hurts your credibility.
4. Don’t overprice or change the price frequently. Buyers watch online classifieds for competing deals — so don’t go switching your price every few days to gauge interest. You won’t look legitimate.
5. Don’t ignore phone calls or emails. If you don’t have time to answer calls or reply to emails, then don’t list your car in multiple classified ads. A prompt reply shows buyers you value their interest.

Here’s the online classified for my little used car.

How could I have improved it? Easy. Posting a few photos of the clean interior would have enticed more interest, but since the car was priced right it sold in three days.

4. Advertise Your Car

I sold my 18-year-old Subaru Justy using free online classifieds. Here are the most popular options:

• Online auto classifieds: There are a number of online classified sites that allow car owners to sell their used car for free. Your country, state, province, or region may have a specific site tailored for your market — so ask your friends or query Facebook for the classified site nearest you. The most popular free online auto classified sites are: Craigslist, Autotrader, Kijiji, and Facebook Marketplace.
• Local newspaper classifieds: A printed ad will cost you a few bucks, so be sure to target your car correctly by getting the listing under the right make, model, and year.
• Tweet on Twitter: If you’re into tweeting on Twitter, then go ahead and broadcast the sale to your followers. If your ad has a bit of humor, you may just get retweeted. See 5 Ways Twitter Can Make You Rich for some helpful tweeting tips or follow @Squawkfox.
• Add a For Sale sign: If you’re still driving your well-loved auto, then post a FOR SALE sign on the rear window. Be sure to write your contact information clearly.

These are just a few ideas. Do you have a favorite online classified site to share?

5. Close the Deal

Know how you would like to receive payment before showing your used car to online buyers. Knowing your payment terms in advance can help defray any uncomfortable moments during the sale. Payment options include: personal check, cash, PayPal, or even via credit card.

This is also the time to stand firm on your price. If you’ve left yourself some wiggle room on your asking price, then go ahead and let your buyer knock you down a few bucks. During my car sale the buyer wanted to go lower than $1,600, but I didn’t budge on my price. I had a number of interested parties and I knew that my asking price was priced below other similarly listed vehicles in my area. So I stood my ground citing that the car was already priced for a fast sale.

If your buyer makes a reasonable offer, be prepared to say yes. Should a buyer offer a ridiculous amount, then don’t be afraid to decline the offer. Thank them for their time and move along to you next appointment, but be sure to leave them with your contact information in case they change their mind. It happens all the time after a “cooling off” period.

Lastly, be aware of your region’s paperwork requirements. Get copies of title transfer documents and environmental certifications to help close the deal on the spot.

Squawkback: Got any tips for selling a used car?

	397 Ways to Save Money Spend Smarter & Live Well on Less By Kerry K. Taylor

Since I love fresh herbs in the summer and dried herbs in the winter, I’ve taken to growing basil, parsley, coriander, chamomile, mint, lemon verbena, and chives for soups (Recipe: Tomato Basil Soup), stews (Recipes: Easy Crock Pot Meals), and homemade herbal teas.

Anyfrugalspiceoflife, I’d love to share an easy way to dry herbs and spices. I tend to do most of my fruit and herb drying with an inexpensive Nesco Food Dehydrator. I also make frugal snacks using this handy device, like these Easy and Healthy Granola Bars or No Bake Cookies.

1. Getting Started: Growing Herbs

Before you can dry herbs and spices, you’ll need to start a little garden. If you’re tight on space, then consider growing herbs in a container or pot, like what I did in Going to Pot with Container Gardening.

Our little recession garden filled with fresh organic herbs and vegetables.

For those with backyard spaces, Getting Dirty with Square Foot Gardening should be super simple. Both square foot and container gardens are great options for those into building a frugal recession garden.

2. Harvesting Herbs

When your fresh herbs have grown, it’s time to get harvesting! Pay close attention to the types of herbs you’ve grown, since the seeds, flowers, leaves, and stems of many herbs can be gathered, dried, and saved for seasoning. Here are a few harvesting herb tips:

Morning harvest: Leaves and stems should be harvested early in the morning, well before the sun’s heat dissipates the herb and spice oils.

Mint leaves almost ripe for an early morning harvest.

Snip at base: Gently snip stems at base, leaving plenty of foliage for the plant to continue growing. The newest leaves at the tip of the plant have the strongest flavor.

Basil leaves are snipped at the freshest point.

Harvest leaves before flowering: Leaves should be harvested before the plant flowers and while the leaves are still tender. A bitter taste can develop when a plant begins to flower, leaving your herbs less herbilicious. .

Lemon Verbena getting lemony for medicinal herbal teas.

Harvest flowers when freshly open: If you’re into medicinal herbs for herbal teas (like Chamomile), you’ll make the best teas from freshly opened buds that are just starting to blossom.

3. Preparing Herbs for Drying

Once you’ve picked, plucked, and harvested your herbs, it’s time to prep them for drying. Here are a few simple steps:

1. Wash gently: Chances are your freshly harvested herbs are a little dingy from your garden. Dirt happens. So gently wash all leaves, flowers, and stems under cool water to remove any dirt or insects. Nobody wants a dried bug in their soup.

2. Weed out the weird ones: Remove and compost all blemished, discolored, or dead herb pieces. Learn how to compost without raising a stink!

3. Prepare large herb leaves: Big leafy herbs like basil and sage need a little help to shorten the drying process. I cut my basil into pieces by removing the leaves from the stem and cutting them in half. Place prepared herbs on a dehydrator tray.

4. Dry flowers whole: Tiny petals can easily blow away in a dehydrator. So when drying flowers, just wash and separate the petals, removing the unsavory ones.

4. Testing Herbs for Dryness

Drying herbs can take from a few hours up to a full day. Bigger herb leaves like basil can take up to 24 hours, while smaller leaves from thyme can take only an hour to dry.

Whatever your herb of choice, it’s always a good idea to test your leaves and stems before packaging them for the winter using this crumble test:

Crumble Test: Herbs are generally dry when they snap and crumble with ease. Stems should be brittle and break when bent. If your herbs don’t crumble under pressure, then keep drying.

If you’re uncertain about the crumble factor, then stick your herbs in an airtight container for a few days. If condensation develops on the inside of the container, your herbs require more drying.

5. Packing and Storing Herbs

Now that all the work is done, it’s time to seal in all herby freshness by
packing and storing your herbs wisely. Nobody wants decayed or stale herbs, do they?

• Packing dried herbs: Air and light are not your friends when it comes to freshly sealing your herbs. Both of these menaces can result in flavor loss, and even insect infestation. Nothing says yummy herbs like an army of ants marching off with your aniseed. To prevent this herb hardship, find yourself a dark jar with an airtight lid — they don’t allow light in! I’ve been using Zip lock freezer baggies for a few years with decent results, but this year I’m trying the jars.

• Storing dried herbs: Dried herbs, flowers, and spices can last 6-12 months when stored correctly. Store in a cool place, below 60F or 15C to keep flavor freshest. Never crush or grind herbs until ready to use. Crushing exposes more surface area to air and light, leaving you with less flavor.

5. Using Dried Herbs

The best part about having organic herbs on hand is using them in your soups, stews, and various other frugal recipes. The trick to cooking with dried herbs is remembering they can be up to 4X stronger than the fresh.

Most fresh herbs contain around 85% water. So 7.5 ounces of dried herbs may yield only one ounce dried — so be careful when adding that dried basil to your spaghetti sauce.

Recipes using fresh or dried herbs:

• Tomato Basil Soup
• Vegetarian Crock Pot Recipes: Soup, Stew, and Chili
• Slow Cooker Recipes: Pot Roast and Southwestern Chicken Soup
• 4 Cheap and Healthy Rapini Recipes
• 3 Recipes for Summer Sweet and Fresh Tomatoes

Your Two Cents: Got any tips for drying herbs or growing your own herb garden?

	397 Ways to Save Money Spend Smarter & Live Well on Less By Kerry K. Taylor

Simply, a diverse portfolio reduces the risk of a single investment being wiped out by market fluctuations while a diverse ecosystem can survive in the face of unexpected disease epidemics and extreme weather fluctuations. You don’t want your retirement funds to become extinct and you don’t want your food supply to be wiped out either.

So what about heirloom tomatoes and seeds? Since I’m all about finding ways to save money while being an environmental steward, I’ve discovered that saving heirloom seeds meets both the money and environmental mark.

A heirloom tomato (called a heritage tomato in the UK) is an open-pollinated (non-hybrid) cultivated variety of tomato that can be grown from seed. Conventional hybrid tomatoes bought from your local grocery store, however, cannot be grown from the seeds you would save from them.

I figure, what’s the point of paying for and supporting parts of the food chain that are not self sustainable? Besides, heirloom tomatoes are very tasty fruits that are easy to grow and it’s free to save the seeds for the next growing season.

Choosing the Right Heirloom Tomato Seeds

When saving heirloom tomato seeds there are three simple rules you should follow for success!

1. Save seeds from only open-pollinated heirloom varieties.

Saving heirloom tomato seeds is easy, but you must choose seeds from only open-pollinated varieties. Here are a few heirloom tomato seeds I have successfully saved!

• Brandywine
• Black Krim
• Cherokee Purple
• And many more!

2. Save seeds from fully ripe heirloom tomatoes.

Do yourself a solid and save your seeds from fully ripe, but not over-ripe heirloom tomatoes.

I know the green tomatoes need love too, but the best seeds for growing are from the fully ripe heirloom tomato fruits.

3. Save seeds from your best looking heirloom tomatoes.

There’s a reason the ladies all love Brad Pitt right? It’s ’cause he’s one hot specimen of a man. Well, you want to use the same logic when saving seeds — choose seeds from the best looking and tasting plants to ensure you grow the best tomatoes.

How to Save Your Heirloom Tomato Seeds

All you need is a sharp knife, a container, some water, a paper plate, and a few heirloom tomatoes to get going on this fun frugal task. Ready?

1. Choose a ripe, gorgeous heirloom tomato. You want to breed only the best.

2. Using a knife, slice across the equator of the tomato. Cutting the tomato in this way easily exposes the seeds.

3. Squeeze the seeds, gel, and juice out into a small container. No need to separate the seeds at this point.

4. Cover the seeds and tomato guts with an inch of water. The water helps to grow mold and separates the seeds from the gel.

5. Label your container so you don’t forget the tomato variety. It’s hard to tell seeds apart without labels.

6. Put the contrainer in an out of sight spot and wait for mold to grow. Unless you enjoy watching mold grow.

7. After 3 to 5 days white mold will grow on the surface of the tomato water. This mold dissolves the gel coating from the seeds. When you see mold (don’t scream), just plug your nose and drain the water. Yes, it’s a little stinky. Be sure to keep only the seeds at the bottom of the container and discard all floating seeds. The floaters will not germinate.

8. Use a fine mesh strainer to rinse the remaining gel from your seeds. Don’t be afraid to use your hands to get those seeds clean.

9. Place your rinsed seeds in a single layer on a paper plate. The paper plate wicks the water away and will not stick to the seeds. The idea is to dry the seeds fast and prevent them from going moldy. Be sure to label your plate. Set the seeds aside for a few days until fully dry.

10. Place your dry heirloom seeds into a labelled baggie. Store in a cool, dry place. Heirloom tomato seeds keep well and germinate for years if stored correctly. I keep mine in the refrigerator. Just don’t let your spouse use them in a salad.

So there you have it! Saving heirloom tomato seeds is a simple way to stash some cash, get involved with biodiversity, and eat healthfully for less. Got any tips for saving seeds? Do you save your heirloom tomato seeds? Share your seedy skills!

	397 Ways to Save Money Spend Smarter & Live Well on Less By Kerry K. Taylor

As a top-ranked Girl Guide with all the badges I knew that being prepared for a myriad of emergency events was money (or badges) in the bank. But later in life I never thought that being prepared could save me both from nature and from financial ruin — until now.

View of the BC Terrace Mountain Fire from Okanagan Lake

A water bomber helicopter works to contain the BC forest fires.

After taking the time to reflect, I’d like to share what I did to be financially prepared for a natural disaster. This isn’t meant to be an exhaustive list, but rather some emergency preparedness (and common sense) steps you can take today to help ease your financial losses if a natural disaster happens to you.

1. Do a Home Inventory

You count your money, right? Well it’s time to count all those pairs of shoes you own. Creating a home inventory is free and can help you strengthen an insurance claim in case of fire, robbery, or a natural disaster. It just makes good financial sense to have a record of your stuff so it can be replaced after the dust has settled. Download these free Home Inventory Worksheets to get you started.

Download:
15 Free Home Inventory Worksheets

I’ve kept a home inventory ever since being robbed decades ago. So when the fires in BC sparked, I was relieved to know that all of my belongings were cataloged on a CD and stored in a safe deposit box far away from my home. If you need some help putting together a home inventory, check out How to Make a Home Inventory to get started. It’s kinda fun, promise.

2. Update Your Homeowner’s or Renter’s Insurance Policy

Now that you’ve created a home inventory, it’s easy to call up your insurer and update your policy to reflect the value of your belongings. Besides, reviewing your policy every year is an excellent way to make changes to your coverage if you buy or sell some big ticket items. Be sure to get insurance for those natural disaster dangers in your area too. If you live in a hurricane, earthquake, or wildfire zone then get some level of coverage to protect yourself from a catastrophic loss.

If you’re currently without homeowner’s or renter’s insurance, consider getting yourself insured. Spending a few hundred bucks a year is well worth the expense if it means protecting yourself against losing everything. Here are 5 ways to cut your homeowner’s or renter’s insurance costs:

• Raise your deductible. A deductible is the amount of money you pay before the insurance company pays up. If you increase your deductible from a standard $250 to $500 or even $1,000, you could save up to 15% on your insurance premium.
• Get group coverage. If you work at a large company, have an alumni association through college or university, or are a member of a business association, then there are discounts to be had through group insurance plans. Just call up your group to discover your preferred rate and get a quote.
• Get a senior’s discount. Going gray has it’s privileges, and a discounted insurance premium is one of them. If you’re at least 55 years young or retired, you may qualify for an easy 10% discount.
• Get home and auto insurance from the same company. Depending on your country, state, or province of residence, many insurance companies offer a discount if you get both home and auto insurance with them. I’ve saved hundreds of bucks by bundling my policies while living in Ontario — but living in BC with public insurance I’m outta luck.
• Ask for a discount. Asking for a better deal is free. Just open your mouth and say, “Is this is the best rate you can offer me?” Be polite and you just may be surprised to save a few bucks on coverage.

3. Get a Safe Deposit Box

Opening a safe deposit box at your local bank is an inexpensive way to protect valuable documents (like stock or bond certificates), jewelry, your home inventory, and other non-replaceable items threatened by fire, water, or theft in your home. Smaller safe deposit boxes can cost around $50 per year while larger ones can set you back hundreds. Regardless of this fee, keeping certain items off-site and out of your home can prove to be priceless if you’re struck by a natural disaster. I’ve kept an updated home inventory CD in a safe deposit box for the last few years just in case.

If you live in the USA or Canada, you may be able to claim your safe deposit box fee as a tax deduction. Check out Overlooked Tax Credits for US Residents and Tips on Safe Deposit Boxes for Canadians to get all the details.

4. Check Emergency Preparedness Checklists

The type of natural disaster you should be prepared for depends on where you live. Those who live along the Cascadia Subduction Zone are more prone to earthquakes and tsunamis while those living in forested areas should be aware of wildfires or forest fires. If you live in a region prone to flash floods, hurricanes, or tornadoes, then you have concerns and emergency preparedness procedures unlike those who live in the Arctic.

To help you prepare for a natural disaster, it’s best to find an emergency supply or preparedness checklist specific to your region. These lists are also valuable to help your family plan an evacuation if required. Saving your finances is one thing, but saving lives and being in the know is golden. I’ve listed a few general emergency preparedness checklists and online sources to find one close to your home below.

United States

• FEMA | Emergency Preparedness Checklist
• California Emergency Services | Emergency Supplies Checklist

Canada

• Government of Canada | Emergency Preparedness at Home (for all provinces and territories)
• Emergency Management B.C. | Family Emergency Supplies Detailed Checklist

United Kingdom

• Directgov UK | Preparing for Emergencies
• Britsh Red Cross

World

• Google Listing | Emergency Preparedness Global Search

Not every area will face a Hurricane Katrina, California wildfires, or BC forest fires so get to know your region and find an emergency preparedness checklist that’s right for you. Just download and print.

5. Pack a Ready Bag

A Ready Bag is a fancy name for a knapsack or bag that contains your essential emergency items. It can be kept in a designated public shelter or taken along during an emergency evacuation. It sounds dire, but it’s a good idea to pack a Ready Bag during the high season for natural disasters in your area.

During the months of July and August I prepared my own Ready Bag and filled it with non-perishable food, warm clothing, toiletries, a blanket, and a few valuables. It’s doesn’t cost a cent to prepare a Ready Bag and it could help protect you from the weather elements if you’re stuck outside or waiting to find shelter. I also packed my pocket-sized SAS Survival Guide since it’s small and contains A LOT of handy and practical tips.

Ready Bag Essentials

• Phone Numbers: emergency and personal contacts
• Cash
• Flashlight
• Spare batteries
• Copies of important documents (passport, driver’s license)
• Essential medications or prescriptions
• First-aid kit
• Child care items
• Bottled water
• Energy bars or non-perishable foods
• Blanket
• Sleeping bag
• A set of spare clothing
• Favorite survival gear
• Small valuables (engagement ring)
• SAS Survival Guide Handbook (pocket Gem format)

Most of the items listed are compact and easy to carry. While it is tempting to pack cherished items like Grandma’s antique china, it’s probably a good idea to leave bulky things behind. Stuff that slows you down won’t keep you safe in times of danger. So stick to the essentials in your Ready Bag and keep yourself safe.

Bonus: Keep Your Car Fueled

Depending on where you live, it’s a good idea to keep your car fueled and ready to flee. I must admit that my dear hubby Carl was a little obsessive about checking the car over and keeping the tank full. Since we live on the outskirts of nowhere, it was imperative for us to get to a safe zone out of harm’s way if or when the forest fire blew our way. Knowing that our tires were pumped, the engine was checked, and our tank was full kept us a little bit safer.

It’s been a few weeks since the BC forest fires were contained in our area keeping us safe in our home. It’s a scary situation to face losing everything you own due to a natural disaster — but planning ahead and being prepared is sometimes the most sane thing to do to keep yourself and your finances as safe as possible. Scout’s honor!

Are you prepared if a disaster strikes your area? Been through an evacuation? Got something to add?

	397 Ways to Save Money Spend Smarter & Live Well on Less By Kerry K. Taylor

Various zones around the world are experiencing a heat wave of sorts this summer. My home province, British Columbia, is currently roasting at 38 degrees Celsius, that’s just over 100F. I’m sure my American friends in Texas and Las Vegas are thinking me a lightweight. But if you’re not acclimatized to dang hot weather and don’t have air conditioning, then coming home after work feels like getting out of the frying pan and into the fire.

Since I’d rather be as cool as a cucumber at night, I’ve found some hot ways to stay cool on the cheap. These DIY cooling tactics won’t replace central air or an air conditioner, but you just might feel more comfortable in the heat. Here are 6 cheap ways to stay cool without air conditioning:

1. Get a Fan

I’m not talking about becoming a Squawkfox fan on Facebook, but rather investing a little cold cash into a simple fan. There are many types of fans on the market these days and they vary in cost, power usage, and placement. Here are a few of the more popular types:

• Ceiling Fan: Classic ceiling fans are a frugal way to put the freeze on the summer heat. Ceiling fans are amazing for moving air in a larger room and can circulate the stuffy out of any situation. They start around $40 and can go up to hundreds of dollars depending on size, power, blade number, and style. Standard 30-inch 6-blade ceiling fans are best suited for medium-sized rooms up to 8 x 10, such as a small kitchen or bedroom. If your room is bigger, then you’ll need a larger fan to fit.

• Tower Fan: A tower fan is a large upright fan that uses an internally rotating cylinder to move lots of air quickly and efficiently. Many tower fans also contain an air filter so they’ll clean and freshen the air as it circulates. They cost around $30 for a small unit and up to $120 for bigger towers. If you’re into using remote controls to cool your environment and have allergies, then a tower fan just may be your best friend.

• Window Fan: A window fan is great if you’re short on space, have a low ceiling, or just want your fan out of sight. Window fans keep you cool by mounting directly into a window and can easily be moved to any room with a window view – so you can stay cool in your living room in the evening and then chill out in your bedroom at night. Many window fans do double duty since they can be used to draw in fresh, cool air from outside or to exhaust stale, hot air from the inside. They cost around $40 and are easily stored in a closet until they are needed next.

2. Turn ON The Blower

Running the blower (or fan) for your centreal heating system will move air around your home and give you some heat relief. Turning on the blower won’t keep you chilled like air conditioning, but you’ll take the stuffy out of upper floors and move stale air from main floors. The blower will also move cool air from the basement to the rest of the house.

3. Move Into Your Basement

If your home is blazing hot and you can’t handle the heat upstairs, try sleeping in the basement to cool your costs. Setting up a bed and sleeping below ground is free and can help you catch some ZZZs when the weather is unbearable. I’ve spent most of this summer slumbering in my basement and I think it’s an awesome use for an often unloved space. If you’ve got kiddlets then make it a game and lay out some sleeping bags and pretend you’re camping. You may just have some frugal fun while you’re at it.

4. Plant a Tree

Planting trees on the south side of your home can help reduce summer cooling costs. Deciduous trees, which lose their leaves in the fall, provide ample shade in the summer, keeping your home cooler while letting more warming light through in the winter. Planting trees around your home can have the added bonus of increasing your property value too. A smaller deciduous tree costs around $50 and can pay for itself in energy savings and increased property value.

5. Close Drapes and Blinds

Your existing drapes and blinds can be closed to shut out the heat during the day and opened to keep you cooler at night. Drapes tend to shield you from sizzling summer heat by shading your home from the hot afternoon sunlight. So don’t forget to shut the blinds before heading for work and open them at night to chill a room out.

6. Find a Friend

Finding a friend with air conditioning may be a cool move if you’re living without drapes, don’t have a basement, or prefer to live fan-free. Cool friends boasting a place to “chill-out” might just prove golden for the hottest of summer nights. So if you can’t handle the heat, then be sure to bring your besty a bottle of summer spirits for helping you out in a hot situation. ‘Cause that’s what friends are for.

Got any cool tips for keeping your place chill in the hot summer months? Share away!

	397 Ways to Save Money Spend Smarter & Live Well on Less By Kerry K. Taylor

Getting us to spend big bucks on refills is a nice gig for cleaning companies looking to make ongoing cash. So I’m putting an end to endless refills, taming the dust mites, dealing with allergies, and sweeping up pet hair all with a swish of my Swiffer hacked broom.

So if you’re allergic to paying for expensive and environmentally unfriendly dusters and sweepers, then try these 4 frugal home cleaning tips for a cleaner home at less cost.

1. Use Microfiber Cloths or Towels

Go ahead and turn your Swiffer into a microfiber mop by passing on refills altogether. Microfiber fabrics are woven from very fine synthetic fibers and are perfect for lots of home cleaning activities, including: mopping, dusting, polishing, and wiping.

These soft and reusable cloths save you money because they are effective at cleaning delicate surfaces like computer monitors, are machine washable, and don’t require costly cleaning solutions to remove grime. Microfiber cloths come in a range of sizes and weights with varying loop sizes and you can buy a package of 12 Microfiber Cleaning Towels for around $10. That’s less than $1 a towel!

I’ve used microfiber cloths on my Swiffer Sweeper for over a year now with excellent results. Microfiber fabric is durable and when the cloth is dirty I just clean it with my laundry.

To turn your Swiffer Sweeper into a microfiber mop:

1. Apply microfiber cloth to the Swiffer Sweeper in the same way as a refill.

2. If the cloth is too long or wide, use clasps to tighten cloth over the Swiffer.

3. Sweep away all your dust bunnies and pet hair!

I love using microfiber cloths over refills because they are a greener alternative, they are reusable for many years, and they cost far less over time. Besides, throwing away Swiffer mop pads and dusters needlessly adds to our landfills and I feel better about not contributing to our environmental debt.

2. Get with it and flip it!

When the dust settles and you think your Swiffer mop sheet has bitten the dust, go ahead and flip it to push forward and continue gathering dust! By fliping these seemingly one-sided Swiffer mop sheets you save 50% on your home cleaning costs by using both sides.

You may need to dust the one side off with a little vaccuming power, but I assure you both sides work equally well for removing the grime from your flooring.

3. Wash and Reuse

Don’t chuck your Swiffer sheets and dusters just yet! If you’ve got some mesh laundry bags and a load of wash ready to rumble, then extend the use of these handy electrostatic dusting and floor mopping tools by washing your dusters and mop heads.

Did you know they can last for several cleanings? Well, they can. Not only do these refillables stay electrostatic after washing but you will reduce the garbage created and save big.

4. Buy Generic Refills

With the popularity of Swiffer refillables, many companies have moved into this dusty market to capture your home cleaning dollars. Many generic refillables cost 10-60% less than the cost of the Swiffer brand. I’ve purcased the Swiffer Duster refills as generics and they hold up nicely for several uses AND can be washed many times to keep costs down.

So if you’re ready to leave your Swiffer sheets and mops in the dust then do try these home cleaning hacks to save some dough. I promise, when the dust settles you’re gonna love the savings.

	397 Ways to Save Money Spend Smarter & Live Well on Less By Kerry K. Taylor

Anypissorgetoffthepot, this post is about container gardening. Container gardens are the perfect solution for those who don’t have the space or time to build larger square foot gardens. Container gardens are small and perfect for those renting apartments or living in condos – and they’re lots of fun!

I first learned about container gardening years ago while living in an apartment building in downtown Ottawa. My neighbors one balcony over were container growing experts and often shared their extra green beans, tomaotes, and strawberries with me. Since that time I’ve been a huge fan of growing vegetables in a pot and have saved hundreds on fresh produce all while having fun.

If you’re limited on space but would still love to grow your own food then give these 11 fruits or vegetables a green thumbs up and don’t be afraid to throw them into a pot!

Stuff You’ll Need:

• Planter pots: A 10-inch diameter clay pot costs about $5. Plastic containers cost 50% less.
• Soil: Untreated potting soil costs about $2 to $3 per bag, enough for several pots. Or make your own compost for free!
• String or Twine: Use to string up beans, tomatoes, or peas.
• Watering can: A small bucket works fine but a spouted can costing $5 to $10 makes watering a lot easier.
• Seeds or plants: Growing from seeds is less expensive than potting plants but takes a while longer.

11 Fruits and Vegetables You Can Grow in a Pot!

This list of fruits, vegetables, and herbs all grow well together, so feel free to plant several herbs together in a single pot to save some cash. The only way to fail with container gardening is to not water! You can also pay a little more for special containers though and I know some people who will only grow strawberries in strawberry pots. But I’ve grown plenty of berries in just regualar flower pots. So go find some terra cotta or plastic containers, add some soil, plant and few seeds and let’s get growing!

1. Grow Strawberries in a Pot

Who doesn’t love summer sweet strawberries in a yummy strawberry crisp? Anysweettooth, the two best types of strawberry plants for containers are the ever-bearing and the day-neutral varieties. These strawberry plants tend to yield a regular harvest from late spring until early fall. Ask your local garden shop for the best strawberries for your area and be sure to mention you’re growing strawberry plants in pots.

2. Plant a Potted Herb Garden

Fresh herbs bought from the grocery store are expensive. Starting a small herb garden in a pot can provide you with fresh herbs all summer long. Rosemary, basil, thyme and sage can all be planted together in a single container.

3. Growing Tomatoes in Pots

Can I grow cherry tomatoes in a container? The answer is YES! I’m currently growing some outstanding cherry and heirloom tomaotes in containers. While many garden varieties of tomatoes require a large area to plant and grow, there are plenty of newer varieties that thrive in a pot. Ask at your garden centre for “patio tomatoes” and consider planting smaller tomato varieties. Growing tomatoes in pots is pretty easy but you’ll probably have to string them up for some support.

4. String Up Snap Peas, Snow Peas, or Beans in a Pot

Planting snow peas in a container is fun. Over the years I’ve had excellent success with a variety of snap peas, green beans, and yellow beans. Just run some strings up your balcony and get vertical to get some fresh peas and beans growning in a pot and onto your dinner plate.

5. Get Rad with Radishes in a Pot

Radishes are quick and easy to grow in a pot and don’t take much space. Radishes are yummy in salads, are fabulous with hummus dips, and add some bite in the hot summer heat. They’re also a great way to spice up a budget family meal!

6. Sling Fresh Summer Salads into a Container

Get a head’s-up by passing on traditional lettuce heads and opt for spring mix varieties to gets some green into your fresh summer salads. Spring mix varieties grow in less space and can be harvested frequently while heads of lettuce take up a lot of space.

7. Beat It with Beets in a Pot

Beets grow easily in a container and are a part of my container gardening strategy. Just be sure to use a large enough pot to allow for your beeters to root deep and delicious.

8. Get Slawed with Container Cabbage

Container cabbage takes a little bit of work. When the cabbage head is first forming on your plant, slice the top part of it into quarters (when looking down) to grow four smaller heads instead of one large one.

9. Ward off Vampires with Garlic in a Pot

A smaller rectangular planter can grow enough garlic to last you a long time. It’s easy to grow, and if you dry it after harvesting it could last you well into the winter.

10. Get Spicy with Hot Peppers in a Pot

If you live in a warmer climate, hot peppers such as jalapenos are simple to grow in a pot. They can be used as attractive ornamentals while providing some home-grown heat for your sassy salsa or your homemade chili.

11. Get Cool with Container Cucumbers

Cucumbers are great for cooling sore, puffy eyes and taste great in a summer salad. Just don’t plant the massive field cucumber varieties in your container garden since these require a lot of space. Small pickling varieties grow well in a pot and taste great both fresh and pickled.

Need some more inspiration? Also try these 12 Vegetables You Can Grow in a Pot to add some more variety to your summer spread.

Growing vegetables in containers is a fun and frugal way to get some seasonal produce onto your dinner plate for less. If you’ve got a patio, a front door landing, or some modest space for hanging pots then don’t be afraid to get verticle and have some fun with container gardening. You might just find that you’ll love going to pot!

	397 Ways to Save Money Spend Smarter & Live Well on Less By Kerry K. Taylor

Growing up in an urban city environment I never bothered with conventional vegetable gardening since space was at a premium and land almost nonexistent. But planting several small raised garden beds is a possibility for many families with a modest plot. Raised beds just don’t take up a lot of space.

Now that I live on a sizable family farm with acres of viable gardening space, I’m still drawn to cultivating a small square foot garden. The reasons are simple – it’s far easier to manage and care for squares of soil than acres of wide open space.

10 Reasons to Love Raised Garden Beds

If you’re wondering if growing a modest square foot garden is for you, here’s some food for thought. Chew on this!

1. No heavy digging. Raised garden beds don’t require you to dig deep into the ground. An advantage if you’re not into, well, digging.

2. Soil quality is irrelevant. If you don’t have fabulous fertile soil then worry not. Just use compost or buy a few bags of soil to fill your raised beds. Perfect soil every time. You can also customize the soil in each box for different plant types.

3. Uses less water. Because the garden is contained you end up using far less water compared to conventional gardening. You also save on your water bill since a contained garden prevents soil from getting spread out and compacted.

4. Easier to care for and protect. Raised garden beds can be placed close to your home and thus under your watchful eye and easier to care for. This depends though, if you have deer grazing in your area then protecting your bounty is still a bit of a job.

5. Easier to manage. It’s easier to reach for and sit beside a raised garden bed than a conventional in-ground garden. Raised beds grow closer to our sitting height and don’t require lots of bending over to get down and dirty. Reaching to weed, water, or harvest is unnecessary since the box frames are not wider than 4 feet.

6. Less weeding? Some square foot gardeners claim there are less weeds with raised beds. I’ve found this claim to be valid since weeds can’t grow inwards from outside the box frame. Also, because the soil is raised and lighter (not compacted), it’s easier and quicker to weed out the unwanted. Lastly, because plants are closer together in square foot beds they can easily crowd out the weeds.

7. Less likely to rot or succumb to bugs. Raised beds are elevated so excess water can easily drain away from the plant and prevent rotting. Bugs, slugs, and critters will have a harder time munching on your veggies too since the garden is raised on higher ground.

8. Supports and trellisis made easy. It’s easy to attach vine supports or a trellis to a raised bed box. Your tomatoes, peas, beans, and other taller plants will love you.

9. Go for Organic Gardening. If you’re into knowing the full history of your food and desire organic produce, then growing your own vegetable garden is a sure fire way to get into organic gardening.

10. Frugal fun! Teaching your kids to cultivate food or just growing the garden for yourself is inexpensive fun. Besides, there are not many hobbies that allow you to enjoy the fruits of your labor when the season is over. Freezing the extras for winter meals can cut grocery expenses and taste yummy in the colder months too.

How to Build a Raised Garden Bed

Raised gardens have been around for decades and building a framed garden box doesn’t require any carpentry prowess. But the world seemed to go crazy for perfect cubes, squares, and boxes when a guy named Mel Bartholomew wrote the book, Square Foot Gardening. Seriously, people. To build a raised bed you don’t need to be a perfect square. Raised garden beds can be misshapen rectangles, triangles, trapezoids, or whatever. I don’t think the plants care.

There are lots of square foot gardening resources available for free online, including: building plans, garden designs, and forums. These sites can help you get gardening with raised beds sooner.

Carl and I got our garden groove on fast by using existing materials and tools we had kicking around the house, for free. Here’s a no-nonsense getting started list:

Square Foot Garden Materials:

• Tools: hammer, saw, rake, trowel
• Frame Box: nails, lumber
• Garden: soils, seeds, plants

The Building Process:

1. Sourcing Lumber.
The lumber we used was just a mix of scrap 2x4s and a few 2x10s we had sitting around. We also sourced some odd pieces given to us as waste from a local sawmill. Calling your local hardware store and asking for flawed or odd pieces may get you a decent discount. You don’t need the prettiest lumber pieces to build a garden frame.

2. Putting it Together.
To build the frame, Carl picked boards that fit well together (not all were straight or square) and nailed them into an 8 foot by 3 foot rectangular frame about 16 inches high. To be completely honest, he winged it given the materials we had on-hand and improvised to save money on lumber.

Given our materials, an 8 foot by 3 foot rectangular frame was the ideal size before the construction became unwieldy. Any wider than 3 feet, and it gets harder to reach the middle of the beds when gardening. Any lower than 16 inches and you need to stoop down to weed. So we made due with what we had. You can too.

We also build a few smaller boxes ideal for an herb garden. I don’t know which is cuter, Carl or the squares.

3. Location. Location. Location.
Find a sunny location close to your house to situate your raised garden box frames. The ideal location would provide 6-8 hours of sunshine daily, be clear from trees or where shade may interfere, and not be located where puddles or heavy rain could harm the plants. We spent a few sunny days deciding where to place our bigger garden beds to maximize growing hours. Planning ahead to see where the sun shines strongest could prevent a meltdown.

We placed our herb boxes closer to the house to shelter our parsley, chives, lemon balm, and chamomile from too many hours of direct sunlight.

4. Fill Boxes with Soil.
Carl got fancy and filled the tractor loader with soil, compost, and well-seasoned horse manure.

You don’t need a tractor to do this deed though. We just happen to have this equipment available on the farm, so Carl got geared up and played farmer boy.

With your own packaged soil or compost mix, fill each box to the brim and use a rake to smooth over the surface. We had to do some minor weeding and rock cleanup after the soil settled.

5. Make a Grid, Or Not?
Many square foot gardeners swear against rows, preferring to make perfect grids on top of each box. The thought is that grids increase crop yields and decrease weeding work.

Farmer Carl is more of a row kind of guy though, and thinks squares are nonsense. He’s got some reasons, below.

Reasons to Plant in Rows:

• Some plants require more than a square foot to grow and risk crowding in a smaller space, like larger tomato plants.

• Other plants don’t need a full square foot to grow, but putting two of them in a square foot would crowd them too much. Either you waste space, or you end up having to break out of the square foot box.

• Some plants grow better in rows. For example, a nice long row of radishes is easy to till from the sides to keep the weeds down, while giving the plants air to breathe from the sides.

• Squares and grids force you to be boring and regimental. Think outside the box! A nice ‘U’ shape of tomatoes growing with basil plants interspersed? Why not!

So needless to say we planted our radishes, strawberries, and tomatoes in rows. We only used squares for our herbs. I’m all for breaking the rules too.

6. Get Planting!
We went a little seed crazy and planted more than 2-3 seeds per hole. We were getting eaten alive by mosquitoes and wanted to save our skins. So we planted quickly. (I can hear the uber frugalists screaming in horror) Sorry. It’s done. These are yellow zucchini.

Covering the seeds with organic soil rich in nutrients.

Our harvest this year should include Early Girl tomatoes, Brandywine and Black Krim heirloom tomatoes, broccoli, chard, kale, zucchini (green and yellow), peas, beans, radishes, strawberries, and a handful of savory herbs and tea flowers.

Some Early Gardening Results

So far so good. We’ve managed to keep the deer away from our kale and chard by placing plastic salad containers over the tastiest plants. These salad containers serve well as protection and have a green house effect, helping the vegetables grow faster.

The rows of tomatoes, radishes, and strawberries are doing very well.

We even have a little strawberry ready for picking. Carl is hoping to harvest the radishes this weekend or sooner.

The chamomile and lemon balm plants are growing slowly. The savory herbs are growing well though.

I can’t wait to see our final results and see if we’ve saved any money by freezing the extras.

Got any square foot or vegetable gardening tips to share? How’s your garden growing?

	397 Ways to Save Money Spend Smarter & Live Well on Less By Kerry K. Taylor

After moving to an organic farm with several hundred acres of alfalfa and grass fields I’ve learned a few frugal tricks for cutting lawn care costs – and any plot or yard size can benefit.

So to make the grass greener on your side of the fence try these lawn care tips and grow some savings. You might just have fun watching the grass grow.

1. Stop over watering your lawn!

An established lawn requires only 1 inch of water each week, whereas many people water double this amount. Grass is a neat little plant with roots that grow deep. The less you water your lawn the deeper the grass roots grow – costing you less in water use. On the farm we stopped irrigating our fields a few years ago and have yielded awesome hay since encouraging the grasses to grow deeper in search of water.

To measure your water usage, buy a plastic watering gauge at your hardware store for about $5. Place the gauge in the lawn and turn off the sprinklers when you have reached the target amount. Or, place a small bucket or ice cream pail under the sprinkler to catch the water and measure for free. You could save hundreds this summer by not sprinkling your cash over the greens.

2. Water early in the morning

The best time to water your lawn is early in the morning when it’s cool out and before any winds kick up and carry your water away. By watering in the mornings instead of in the hot afternoons, you can reduce your water use because heat and evaporation are not diminishing your watering attempts.

3. Grow a taller lawn

Growing your lawn to heights between 2 and 3 inches can save you up to 50 percent of the water consumed by a shorter 1 to-2 inch lawn. Keeping grass cut short causes the roots to grow shallow, which exposes them to drier soil at the surface, so the grass then requires more frequent watering.

A taller lawn also helps to crowd out weeds, saving you additional dollars on weed-busting maintenance costs. When it comes to farming tall grasses I used to wonder how much does a bale of hay weigh? The answer is, it depends. The first bale of hay is light. The next 100 bales are a bit$h. So maintaining a taller lawn on an urban plot should be a breeze.

4. Convert part of your lawn to a vegetable garden

Adding green space around your home in the form of a lawn is attractive, but it’s also expensive when you consider the costs of growing grass over the savings gained from having your own vegetable garden. By converting a portion of your greenery to a small vegetable garden, you get more bang for your soil buck and can save money on your food budget.

Besides, growing some salad tastes a whole lot better than eating grass.

5. Use vinegar and dish soap to kill weeds

Herbicides can eat holes in your pocketbook while being hard on the environment. Skip expensive chemicals and cultivate your own weed-killing solution by mixing vinegar with a bit of food-safe dish soap. Just fill an old spray bottle and apply directly onto your weeds.

This frugal and environmentally safe mixture kills most weeds and can be safely used anywhere near pets and children. I opted to pass on herbicides years ago after adopting Pivo and observing that she’s one of those dogs who eats a lot of grass. (Yes, I think it is normal for a dog to eat grass. And no, eating grass is not bad for dogs as long as the lawn is pesticide and herbicide free. I just think of my lawn as “dog salad”.)

Anydoggyinthegrass, I’ve used this trick for a few seasons with excellent results. For tougher weeds that don’t respond to vinegar and dish soap, a bit of digging is free and guaranteed to work.

6. Make your own fertilizer with compost

Skip spending good dollars on expensive synthetic and petroleum-based fertilizer each year by starting a compost. A properly maintained compost can break down waste from both your kitchen scraps and garden trimmings. The compost from a single household can replace about $20 worth of synthetic fertilizer each year and will help keep chemicals off your lawn and out of your vegetable garden.

7. Sow grass seed and skip sod

If you need an instant lawn it will cost you. Laying weed-free and pretty sod runs 30 to 40 times more than planting grass seed. So if you’ve got the time, opting for sowing grass seed will save you hundreds. The best time to plant is after the last frost in spring or late in the fall. Seeds will lay dormant over the winter, then be the first plants to sprout in the spring. Seeding grass is dirt cheap and easy – just sprinkle your grass seed onto your soil and rake it in so it’s just under the surface.

8. Use a manual push lawn mower

Save yourself lots of green by cutting your lawn with a manual push lawn mower instead of a gas-powered unit. Manual push lawn mowers slice the grass using the energy you provide and cost anywhere from $100 to $150 with virtually zero maintenance costs.

On the other hand, gas-powered lawn mowers (especially riding lawn mowers) are expensive to buy, cost big dollars to fuel, and may require a mechanic to service any breakdowns. Don’t get me started on the costs of lawn tractors, the annoyance of sourcing replacement lawn mower parts, or the impossibility of using an electric lawn mower in the middle of a farm. Sigh.

As an added free bonus though, push lawn mowers are quiet, are non-polluting and give you a great workout. Now that’s a new way to find splendor in the grass.

9. Keep your lawn mower sharp

You don’t need to be the sharpest knife in the drawer to know that dull lawn mower blades do not cut grass well. If you’re using a gas or electric mower, dull blades can increase energy use by 10 percent. To get your lawn mower blades sharp, get a sharpening stone for under $10 at most hardware stores and sharpen your lawn mower blades at least every other month. Just be sure to turn off or unplug your lawn mower before sharpening. Ouch!

10. Mow your own lawn

Rather than hire a company to mow your lawn, get your motor running and cut it yourself. Lawn maintenance contractors can charge $100 to $200 each month to care for an average lawn.

If you don’t have the time to be your own lawn boy, consider hiring your neighbor’s teenager to mow for less than the cost of a pro.

Got any tips for saving some green on lawn care or share your frugal weeding ways. Want to mow my lawn?

	397 Ways to Save Money Spend Smarter & Live Well on Less By Kerry K. Taylor

Composting is a frugal and environmentally friendly way to turn kitchen and garden waste into nutrient-rich fertilizer for your lawn, garden, or potted plants. Everyone can benefit from composting, whether you live in an urban apartment, a home with a yard, or on an organic farm like me.

4 Really Good Reasons To Compost

I’ve got four really good reasons to start composting your kitchen (and garden) scraps today. Do you have more?

1. Composting reduces the amount of garbage you produce, which can decrease the cost of garbage pickup and save you from spending additional dollars on plastic garbage bags.
2. Composting can eliminate the need to use synthetic fertilizer, saving you at least $20 to $50 per a year on gardening costs.
3. You can decrease the amount of water you use in your garden (and save money) because composted fertilizer absorbs and retains water more readily than normal regular topsoil.
4. Composting increases soil quality and can produce superior flowers and higher yielding vegetable gardens.

Getting Started: Your Compost Checklist

All you need to create your own soil and reduce garbage waste is a compost bin, a kitchen compost bucket, and a shovel.

Here’s your basic compost checklist:

• A lumber wood or plastic compost bin for $0 to $100.
• A shovel or pitchfork to periodically turn the compost, around $20.
• A kitchen compost bucket or a plastic container for $0 to $50.

Composting bins can be built for little to no cost using scrap lumber, while plastic compost bins can be purchased at Amazon or at most hardware stores for around $60. Your city or municipality may even sell plastic compost bins for half the price in the spring.

Some gardeners prefer to stir their compost less often by using a compost tumbler. Here’s how to DIY and build a compost tumbler if you’re not into stirring a compost bin with a pitch fork.

About Kitchen Compost Buckets

Kitchen compost buckets (or pails) conveniently store food scraps and eliminate odor before you transfer them to an outside compost. Many kitchen containers boast a tight-fitting lid, use long-lasting charcoal filters to eliminate odor, and are attractive options for above or below counter-top use.

	Gaiam Kitchen Compost Bucket ($20 Amazon)
	Norpro 94 Stainless-Steel Composter Keeper ($50 Amazon)

I’ve used two of these composting buckets over the years while living in an apartment and on the farm. They really do decrease smells and encourage a reduction in kitchen waste since I’m more likely compost kitchen scraps when the compost is easily accessible.

What You Can (and Can’t) Compost

Virtually all plant material can be composted, ranging from fruit and vegetable peels to coffee grounds and garden clippings. A well-maintained compost will break down smaller pieces of organic matter in weeks, giving you access to fresh soil on a regular basis.

Things You Shouldn’t Compost:

• Inorganic materials, such as: plastic, glass, and metal.
• Fatty and oily foods like grease from a deep fat fryer.
• Meat scraps and bones.
• Dairy products.
• Poop (human or from your pets).
• Large pieces of wood – they’ll take forever to break down.

Along with most plant, vegetable, fruit, garden, and lawn matter, here’s a list of compostables that may surprise you!

Surprising Things You Can Compost:

• Paper products: paper towel, coffee filters, paper bags, news print, cardboard. It’s best to shred paper products if possible to speed breakdown. Even printed papers are safe to compost because most modern inks and dyes are vegetable based.
• Egg shells.
• Egg cartons.
• Tea bags.

4 Easy Steps to Stink-Free Compost

Once you’ve got a compost bin, it’s time to start composting! Here are 4 easy steps to stink-free compost and some methods for building a more effective mixture.

1. Keep a small bucket or container near in your kitchen to help collect biodegradable scraps like produce peels and coffee grounds. Every few days, dump your kitchen waste into the compost bin.

2. Mix the new material into the existing compost. Also, once a month thoroughly turn and fluff all material in the compost bin using a shovel or pitchfork. This gets the air circulating around the material, which provides ventilation and promotes decomposition. Keeping a shovel or pitch fork handy can encourage you to mix!

3. Add some water if your compost gets dry. In the hotter summer months, add a little water every other week to keep the compost moist, but not soaking. Moisture feeds the bacteria in the compost and keeps the material composting.

4. After one or two years, depending on how much compost you produce, remove most of the material from the compost bin. You can either let this sit to “finish” in a pile for a month or dig it directly into your flowerbeds and vegetable garden. Don’t fully remove all your compost, though – leaving a small amount will to help get the next batch going.

TIP: Try to maintain a compost mixture of about half “browns” and half “greens”. Browns are materials high in carbon such as dried grass, leaves, sawdust, straw and paper. Greens are materials high in nitrogen and such as kitchen vegetable waste and any fresh plant material such as grass clippings. You don’t need an exact mixture, but having a compost of only browns or only greens will not promote decomposition.

A working compost should not smell. If your compost has an odor and attracts flies, make sure you have a good mix of browns and greens and always cover fresh material with existing compost.

Final Compost Thoughts

With just a little effort it’s easy to reduce the amount of garbage you create while turning your scraps into fine soil for your lawn or garden. Do you compost? Would you consider it?

	397 Ways to Save Money Spend Smarter & Live Well on Less By Kerry K. Taylor