The problem is, how the heck do you wrap a CD when it doesn’t have a jewel case? Gaw! This is where readers like Sarah S. come in handy. Sarah emailed the other day ALSO looking for a way to wrap those shiny discs. Since we both have the same issue, I thought I’d get a little crafty with a free way to Make Your Own CD Covers.

 
Here’s how to make your own CD cover:

1. Go ahead and download the Printable CD Cover Template, and then print it out. Make sure your printer isn’t scaling the template smaller — a CD should fit into the inner square!

2. Use a pen or pencil to trace the template onto heavy card stock. Thicker paper is easier to handle and keeps the CD safe.

3. Use your scissors to cut the pattern out along the solid lines.

4. Fold the corners along the dashed lines. You may need to score the paper with a knife or scissors if you’re using very heavy stock.

5. Place your disc in the center and fold the CD cover closed.

6. Seal your CD cover closed with a holiday sticker or bow. Make your CD an ornament by using a needle and thread to add a tree hanger.

If you’ve got your CDs covered, then maybe you just need a gift tag for those last minute presents under the tree? Check out these free 6 Printable Gift Tags, (including these super cute printable gift tags from Santa!)

Many thanks to Sarah S. for suggesting this frugal fix for a common CD problem!

	397 Ways to Save Money Spend Smarter & Live Well on Less By Kerry K. Taylor

Due to popular request (you can stop emailing me now), I’ve used my pumpkin carving prowess to make pumpkin faces! So go ahead and carve a bat, paint a Jack O’Lantern, or get freaky with a Frankenstein face. These pumpkin stencils range from easy to challenging, so pick your favorite face and get carving! I’ve even included a Marilyn Monroe pattern for those looking to throw a more stylish Halloween party.

Download: Vampire Bat (PDF)	Download: Frankenstein (PDF)
Download: Marilyn Monroe (PDF)	Download: Bow Tie (PDF)
Download: Evil Devil (PDF)	Download: Ghost (PDF)
Download: Happy Jack (PDF)	Download: Classic Jack (PDF)

Want something else? Try these:

• 20 Extreme Pumpkin Carving Designs
• Kids’ Costumes for Under $20
• Frugal Adult Costumes
• Halloween Candy, Accessories, Décor, and more!

Pumpkin Carving Stencil Instructions:

1. Download and print the pumpkin stencil you like best.
2. Use scissors to remove the black area of the stencil. Leave the white space free from scissor marks.
3. Trim and make small incisions in the stencil. This helps it to lay flat on the face of the pumpkin. Tape the edges of the stencil to the pumpkin.
4. Transfer the pattern by tracing a marker or pen along the stencil. Alternatively, poke holes along the pattern with a tool or needle. Remove stencil.
5. Prepare your pumpkin by removing the top or base. Remove the pulp and seeds.
6. Using a sharp knife carve a scary face! See How to Carve a Pumpkin for some scary tips!

When picking your pumpkin from the patch be sure to select a squash that suits the stencil. Some patterns work better on rounder, squarer, or taller pumpkins.

More Halloween Fun:

• Free Printable Pumpkin Carving Stencils
• 10 Halloween Costume Ideas for Kids and Adults
• Recipes: Gross, Easy, and Fun Halloween Foods for Kids
• How to Carve a Pumpkin (without losing a finger)
• 10 Cheap Last Minute Halloween Costume Ideas

Got a ghoulish and frugal fun Halloween tip to share?

	397 Ways to Save Money Spend Smarter & Live Well on Less By Kerry K. Taylor

These simple school backpacks are fabulous for lugging light books from class to class or for carrying a frugalicious homemade lunch to the cafeteria.

But you don’t have to be a kid to want a sling backpack. I’ve made several of these backpacks for friends. The guys tend to use them as rough and tumble backpacks or as a simple canvas rucksack for a light hike. I’ve used mine as a backpack purse, a shopping bag, a tote bag, and as a reusable grocery bag. If you’re into the yoga or Pilates scene, then change the dimensions on the pattern for use as a yoga mat bag. How’s that for a flexible free pattern?

Backpack Front

Backpack Back

To keep this craft uber thrifty, skip the fabric store and stick to fabric remnants, cut up an old pair of jeans, or reuse used clothing for a custom and unique backpack design. I often keep my backpack simple, but sometimes I like to add appliqués, names, or initials to personalize the gift. This is also a fun weekend craft to do with kids since you don’t need to be an expert sewer to string together this pattern. To be honest, Carl put this one together himself. He’s the man (with a backpack purse)!

Backpack Materials:

This list may look a little long, but chances are you’ll have everything you need already in your home!

Stuff You’ll Need:

• 0.5m (1/2 yard) of heavy canvas, nylon, or ripstop fabric
• 2m (2 yards) of sturdy cord
• thread
• large safety pin
• two grommets (or eyelets)
• grommet kit (around $5)
• hammer (for pounding the grommets)
• sewing machine
• measuring tape, pencil, pins, scissors

DIY Backpack Instructions:

1. Using a measuring tape, scissors, and a pencil: cut your canvas fabric into a single piece measuring 45 cm X 83 cm (18 inches X 33 inches). Measure twice, cut once.

2. Lay your canvas fabric flat, with the wrong side facing up. Fold and pin a 1 cm (1/2 inch) hem along each short edge. Sew 0.5 cm hems for each short edge. Go ahead and remove the pins.

3. Make a channel for the cord to fit through: Lay the fabric flat, with the wrong side facing again. Fold and pin a 4 cm (1 1/2 inch) hem along one long edge. Sew a 3.5 cm (1 1/4 inch) hem. Go ahead and remove the pins. Note: if your cord is thicker, be sure to pin and hem a wider channel.

4. Sew the back of the bag shut by facing the wrong sides of the fabric together. Just fold the fabric in half widthwise and pin the short edges together. Starting 3.5 cm (1 1/4 inches) down from the channel, sew over top of the hem stitching. Be sure not to sew the channel shut. Go ahead and remove the pins.

5. Sew the bottom of the bag shut by turning the bag inside out and laying it flat so the seam runs down the center. Pin the bottom closed. Sew a 1 cm (1/2 inch) seam along the bottom of the backpack. Go ahead and remove the pins. Turn the bag right side out.

6. Get your grommets ready to pierce through the canvas fabric. With the cord channel at the top, measure and mark 2.5 cm (1 inch) from the bottom of both backpack corners. Punch a grommet (or eyelet) into each marking. You may need a grommet kit to punch the grommet through the fabric.

7. Use a large safety pin to thread the cord through the channel. Hopefully you chose the right sized cord to fit into your channel hem.

There are many choices of cord available. I used a simple white cord in this example, but feel free to get creative with glow-in-the-dark and multi-colored ropes of varying sizes. Just head to your local hardware store for a selection. I’ll be using my green glow-in-the-dark rope for a trick-or-treat bag this Halloween as part of a fun Halloween costume. Boo!

8. Thread the cord through each grommet and tie a knot in each end. Go ahead and fray the rope ends for a more casual feel. Otherwise, you may need to burn the cord ends to prevent fraying.

9. Pull the backpack opening closed and try on the bag. If the handles are too long, retie the knots for a better length and trim the edges. Smaller kids may need shorter handles.

10. Personalize the backpack to suit the wearer. Sew on appliqués, use lettering, apply iron-ons, or use pins to customize the backpack. Have some fun with the design!

I often stuff my sling backpack with a good book, a frugalicious snack, and then head out for a short hike with my dog.

Now get sewing, get creative, and sling together a frugal back to school backpack for your kids or for yourself!

	397 Ways to Save Money Spend Smarter & Live Well on Less By Kerry K. Taylor

Various zones around the world are experiencing a heat wave of sorts this summer. My home province, British Columbia, is currently roasting at 38 degrees Celsius, that’s just over 100F. I’m sure my American friends in Texas and Las Vegas are thinking me a lightweight. But if you’re not acclimatized to dang hot weather and don’t have air conditioning, then coming home after work feels like getting out of the frying pan and into the fire.

Since I’d rather be as cool as a cucumber at night, I’ve found some hot ways to stay cool on the cheap. These DIY cooling tactics won’t replace central air or an air conditioner, but you just might feel more comfortable in the heat. Here are 6 cheap ways to stay cool without air conditioning:

1. Get a Fan

I’m not talking about becoming a Squawkfox fan on Facebook, but rather investing a little cold cash into a simple fan. There are many types of fans on the market these days and they vary in cost, power usage, and placement. Here are a few of the more popular types:

• Ceiling Fan: Classic ceiling fans are a frugal way to put the freeze on the summer heat. Ceiling fans are amazing for moving air in a larger room and can circulate the stuffy out of any situation. They start around $40 and can go up to hundreds of dollars depending on size, power, blade number, and style. Standard 30-inch 6-blade ceiling fans are best suited for medium-sized rooms up to 8 x 10, such as a small kitchen or bedroom. If your room is bigger, then you’ll need a larger fan to fit.

• Tower Fan: A tower fan is a large upright fan that uses an internally rotating cylinder to move lots of air quickly and efficiently. Many tower fans also contain an air filter so they’ll clean and freshen the air as it circulates. They cost around $30 for a small unit and up to $120 for bigger towers. If you’re into using remote controls to cool your environment and have allergies, then a tower fan just may be your best friend.

• Window Fan: A window fan is great if you’re short on space, have a low ceiling, or just want your fan out of sight. Window fans keep you cool by mounting directly into a window and can easily be moved to any room with a window view – so you can stay cool in your living room in the evening and then chill out in your bedroom at night. Many window fans do double duty since they can be used to draw in fresh, cool air from outside or to exhaust stale, hot air from the inside. They cost around $40 and are easily stored in a closet until they are needed next.

2. Turn ON The Blower

Running the blower (or fan) for your centreal heating system will move air around your home and give you some heat relief. Turning on the blower won’t keep you chilled like air conditioning, but you’ll take the stuffy out of upper floors and move stale air from main floors. The blower will also move cool air from the basement to the rest of the house.

3. Move Into Your Basement

If your home is blazing hot and you can’t handle the heat upstairs, try sleeping in the basement to cool your costs. Setting up a bed and sleeping below ground is free and can help you catch some ZZZs when the weather is unbearable. I’ve spent most of this summer slumbering in my basement and I think it’s an awesome use for an often unloved space. If you’ve got kiddlets then make it a game and lay out some sleeping bags and pretend you’re camping. You may just have some frugal fun while you’re at it.

4. Plant a Tree

Planting trees on the south side of your home can help reduce summer cooling costs. Deciduous trees, which lose their leaves in the fall, provide ample shade in the summer, keeping your home cooler while letting more warming light through in the winter. Planting trees around your home can have the added bonus of increasing your property value too. A smaller deciduous tree costs around $50 and can pay for itself in energy savings and increased property value.

5. Close Drapes and Blinds

Your existing drapes and blinds can be closed to shut out the heat during the day and opened to keep you cooler at night. Drapes tend to shield you from sizzling summer heat by shading your home from the hot afternoon sunlight. So don’t forget to shut the blinds before heading for work and open them at night to chill a room out.

6. Find a Friend

Finding a friend with air conditioning may be a cool move if you’re living without drapes, don’t have a basement, or prefer to live fan-free. Cool friends boasting a place to “chill-out” might just prove golden for the hottest of summer nights. So if you can’t handle the heat, then be sure to bring your besty a bottle of summer spirits for helping you out in a hot situation. ‘Cause that’s what friends are for.

Got any cool tips for keeping your place chill in the hot summer months? Share away!

	397 Ways to Save Money Spend Smarter & Live Well on Less By Kerry K. Taylor

Getting us to spend big bucks on refills is a nice gig for cleaning companies looking to make ongoing cash. So I’m putting an end to endless refills, taming the dust mites, dealing with allergies, and sweeping up pet hair all with a swish of my Swiffer hacked broom.

So if you’re allergic to paying for expensive and environmentally unfriendly dusters and sweepers, then try these 4 frugal home cleaning tips for a cleaner home at less cost.

1. Use Microfiber Cloths or Towels

Go ahead and turn your Swiffer into a microfiber mop by passing on refills altogether. Microfiber fabrics are woven from very fine synthetic fibers and are perfect for lots of home cleaning activities, including: mopping, dusting, polishing, and wiping.

These soft and reusable cloths save you money because they are effective at cleaning delicate surfaces like computer monitors, are machine washable, and don’t require costly cleaning solutions to remove grime. Microfiber cloths come in a range of sizes and weights with varying loop sizes and you can buy a package of 12 Microfiber Cleaning Towels for around $10. That’s less than $1 a towel!

I’ve used microfiber cloths on my Swiffer Sweeper for over a year now with excellent results. Microfiber fabric is durable and when the cloth is dirty I just clean it with my laundry.

To turn your Swiffer Sweeper into a microfiber mop:

1. Apply microfiber cloth to the Swiffer Sweeper in the same way as a refill.

2. If the cloth is too long or wide, use clasps to tighten cloth over the Swiffer.

3. Sweep away all your dust bunnies and pet hair!

I love using microfiber cloths over refills because they are a greener alternative, they are reusable for many years, and they cost far less over time. Besides, throwing away Swiffer mop pads and dusters needlessly adds to our landfills and I feel better about not contributing to our environmental debt.

2. Get with it and flip it!

When the dust settles and you think your Swiffer mop sheet has bitten the dust, go ahead and flip it to push forward and continue gathering dust! By fliping these seemingly one-sided Swiffer mop sheets you save 50% on your home cleaning costs by using both sides.

You may need to dust the one side off with a little vaccuming power, but I assure you both sides work equally well for removing the grime from your flooring.

3. Wash and Reuse

Don’t chuck your Swiffer sheets and dusters just yet! If you’ve got some mesh laundry bags and a load of wash ready to rumble, then extend the use of these handy electrostatic dusting and floor mopping tools by washing your dusters and mop heads.

Did you know they can last for several cleanings? Well, they can. Not only do these refillables stay electrostatic after washing but you will reduce the garbage created and save big.

4. Buy Generic Refills

With the popularity of Swiffer refillables, many companies have moved into this dusty market to capture your home cleaning dollars. Many generic refillables cost 10-60% less than the cost of the Swiffer brand. I’ve purcased the Swiffer Duster refills as generics and they hold up nicely for several uses AND can be washed many times to keep costs down.

So if you’re ready to leave your Swiffer sheets and mops in the dust then do try these home cleaning hacks to save some dough. I promise, when the dust settles you’re gonna love the savings.

	397 Ways to Save Money Spend Smarter & Live Well on Less By Kerry K. Taylor

This past weekend I rediscovered the fine art of frugal kite flying. A friend of mine had the brilliant idea to launch a Kite Flying Party to celebrate nothing in particular, except recycled materials and wind. I must admit that getting together with a group of friends to stare into the clouds was the most fun I’ve ever had with a recycled garbage bag and a spool of fishing wire.

I am so inspired with kites given the cost (free) and endless fun involved, that I’ve decided to share one of Carl’s winning kite designs with you. It’s not the prettiest kite in the sky, but it flew the highest and longest for the least amount of money. At the party everyone wanted to know how to make a kite like Carl. So here’s how to build a kite using a printable kite pattern. This is an easy and super fun project for both adults and kids.

Materials You’ll Need:

• 2 wooden dowels, 90cm (35″) and 120cm (47″) long. The longer dowel is the spine of the kite, the shorter dowel the crosspiece.
• Plastic sheeting or recycled garbage bags
• Strong tape, such as packing tape or electrical tape
• Twine
• Kite string or fishing line

Tools You’ll Need:

• Tape measure
• Scissors
• Pencil

DIY Instructions: How To Make A Kite

This Do-it-Yourself project takes about an hour to complete. Having enough wind to make your aircraft fly is totally up to you! Feel free to get creative by decorating your kite in a unique way using paints, markers, or stickers.

1. Download the printable kite pattern and get your kite building materials together. Having a friendly big-eared dog watch you is entirely optional.

2. Measure and locate the middle point on the crosspiece, mark with a pencil. Place the middle point of the crosspiece at right angles on the spine, about 30cm (12″) from one end.

3. Fasten the two dowels together using twine and tape. It is important that they remain at right angles to each other, and the mid point of the crosspiece is directly on the spine.

4. Run twine from one end of the crosspiece, to the top end of the spine, to the other end of the spine. Fasten at each end using tape. This will help keep the dowels properly at right angles to each other. Lay the frame flat, with the crosspiece facing up.

5. Cover the frame with plastic material. Use tape to secure to the dowels and the twine, with extra reinforcement at the ends.

6. Punch two small holes along the spine for the bridle. It’s a good idea to reinforce these holes with tape.

7. To make the bridle, feed a length of twine through the hole at the top and tie it to the spine. Do the same with the other end of the twine at the other hole. The bridle should be long enough so when you pick up the kite by it, it’s at least 20cm (8″) from the kite’s surface.

8. Attach the kite string to the bridle. By choosing where you attach the string, you control the angle at which the kite flies. This will require some experimenting to find the best spot, but start at a point near the top of the kite.

9. Attach a length of twine (about 120cm/4′) to the bottom end of the spine as a tail. Tie ribbons of left-over plastic at regular intervals to it.

10. Find some wind, and GO FLY A KITE!

Troubleshooting: Ways to Fix Your Kite

If you’re having problems getting your kite off the ground or it’s spinning out of control, then try some of this kite-fixit-ideas!

1. Problem: Failure To Launch
If your kite won’t lift off well and flies fairly flat and limply, try moving the point where the kite string attaches to the bridle a bit towards the tail of the kite.

2. Problem: Spinning Out of Control
If your kite spins or dives uncontrollably to one side then the next, move the bridle attachment point a bit towards the front of the kite, or add a few more ribbons to the tail.

3. Problem: Not Enough Wind
I can’t help you here. Have you tried beans?

Kite flying parties are an amazing amount of frugal fun for all ages. I highly recommend finding an open field, throwing a kite design contest, or trying to engineer the best flying machine you can muster. Now go grab your friends, your kids, or your grandchildren and take them outside for a fun day of kite flying.

	397 Ways to Save Money Spend Smarter & Live Well on Less By Kerry K. Taylor

Growing up in an urban city environment I never bothered with conventional vegetable gardening since space was at a premium and land almost nonexistent. But planting several small raised garden beds is a possibility for many families with a modest plot. Raised beds just don’t take up a lot of space.

Now that I live on a sizable family farm with acres of viable gardening space, I’m still drawn to cultivating a small square foot garden. The reasons are simple – it’s far easier to manage and care for squares of soil than acres of wide open space.

10 Reasons to Love Raised Garden Beds

If you’re wondering if growing a modest square foot garden is for you, here’s some food for thought. Chew on this!

1. No heavy digging. Raised garden beds don’t require you to dig deep into the ground. An advantage if you’re not into, well, digging.

2. Soil quality is irrelevant. If you don’t have fabulous fertile soil then worry not. Just use compost or buy a few bags of soil to fill your raised beds. Perfect soil every time. You can also customize the soil in each box for different plant types.

3. Uses less water. Because the garden is contained you end up using far less water compared to conventional gardening. You also save on your water bill since a contained garden prevents soil from getting spread out and compacted.

4. Easier to care for and protect. Raised garden beds can be placed close to your home and thus under your watchful eye and easier to care for. This depends though, if you have deer grazing in your area then protecting your bounty is still a bit of a job.

5. Easier to manage. It’s easier to reach for and sit beside a raised garden bed than a conventional in-ground garden. Raised beds grow closer to our sitting height and don’t require lots of bending over to get down and dirty. Reaching to weed, water, or harvest is unnecessary since the box frames are not wider than 4 feet.

6. Less weeding? Some square foot gardeners claim there are less weeds with raised beds. I’ve found this claim to be valid since weeds can’t grow inwards from outside the box frame. Also, because the soil is raised and lighter (not compacted), it’s easier and quicker to weed out the unwanted. Lastly, because plants are closer together in square foot beds they can easily crowd out the weeds.

7. Less likely to rot or succumb to bugs. Raised beds are elevated so excess water can easily drain away from the plant and prevent rotting. Bugs, slugs, and critters will have a harder time munching on your veggies too since the garden is raised on higher ground.

8. Supports and trellisis made easy. It’s easy to attach vine supports or a trellis to a raised bed box. Your tomatoes, peas, beans, and other taller plants will love you.

9. Go for Organic Gardening. If you’re into knowing the full history of your food and desire organic produce, then growing your own vegetable garden is a sure fire way to get into organic gardening.

10. Frugal fun! Teaching your kids to cultivate food or just growing the garden for yourself is inexpensive fun. Besides, there are not many hobbies that allow you to enjoy the fruits of your labor when the season is over. Freezing the extras for winter meals can cut grocery expenses and taste yummy in the colder months too.

How to Build a Raised Garden Bed

Raised gardens have been around for decades and building a framed garden box doesn’t require any carpentry prowess. But the world seemed to go crazy for perfect cubes, squares, and boxes when a guy named Mel Bartholomew wrote the book, Square Foot Gardening. Seriously, people. To build a raised bed you don’t need to be a perfect square. Raised garden beds can be misshapen rectangles, triangles, trapezoids, or whatever. I don’t think the plants care.

There are lots of square foot gardening resources available for free online, including: building plans, garden designs, and forums. These sites can help you get gardening with raised beds sooner.

Carl and I got our garden groove on fast by using existing materials and tools we had kicking around the house, for free. Here’s a no-nonsense getting started list:

Square Foot Garden Materials:

• Tools: hammer, saw, rake, trowel
• Frame Box: nails, lumber
• Garden: soils, seeds, plants

The Building Process:

1. Sourcing Lumber.
The lumber we used was just a mix of scrap 2×4s and a few 2×10s we had sitting around. We also sourced some odd pieces given to us as waste from a local sawmill. Calling your local hardware store and asking for flawed or odd pieces may get you a decent discount. You don’t need the prettiest lumber pieces to build a garden frame.

2. Putting it Together.
To build the frame, Carl picked boards that fit well together (not all were straight or square) and nailed them into an 8 foot by 3 foot rectangular frame about 16 inches high. To be completely honest, he winged it given the materials we had on-hand and improvised to save money on lumber.

Given our materials, an 8 foot by 3 foot rectangular frame was the ideal size before the construction became unwieldy. Any wider than 3 feet, and it gets harder to reach the middle of the beds when gardening. Any lower than 16 inches and you need to stoop down to weed. So we made due with what we had. You can too.

We also build a few smaller boxes ideal for an herb garden. I don’t know which is cuter, Carl or the squares.

3. Location. Location. Location.
Find a sunny location close to your house to situate your raised garden box frames. The ideal location would provide 6-8 hours of sunshine daily, be clear from trees or where shade may interfere, and not be located where puddles or heavy rain could harm the plants. We spent a few sunny days deciding where to place our bigger garden beds to maximize growing hours. Planning ahead to see where the sun shines strongest could prevent a meltdown.

We placed our herb boxes closer to the house to shelter our parsley, chives, lemon balm, and chamomile from too many hours of direct sunlight.

4. Fill Boxes with Soil.
Carl got fancy and filled the tractor loader with soil, compost, and well-seasoned horse manure.

You don’t need a tractor to do this deed though. We just happen to have this equipment available on the farm, so Carl got geared up and played farmer boy.

With your own packaged soil or compost mix, fill each box to the brim and use a rake to smooth over the surface. We had to do some minor weeding and rock cleanup after the soil settled.

5. Make a Grid, Or Not?
Many square foot gardeners swear against rows, preferring to make perfect grids on top of each box. The thought is that grids increase crop yields and decrease weeding work.

Farmer Carl is more of a row kind of guy though, and thinks squares are nonsense. He’s got some reasons, below.

Reasons to Plant in Rows:

• Some plants require more than a square foot to grow and risk crowding in a smaller space, like larger tomato plants.

• Other plants don’t need a full square foot to grow, but putting two of them in a square foot would crowd them too much. Either you waste space, or you end up having to break out of the square foot box.

• Some plants grow better in rows. For example, a nice long row of radishes is easy to till from the sides to keep the weeds down, while giving the plants air to breathe from the sides.

• Squares and grids force you to be boring and regimental. Think outside the box! A nice ‘U’ shape of tomatoes growing with basil plants interspersed? Why not!

So needless to say we planted our radishes, strawberries, and tomatoes in rows. We only used squares for our herbs. I’m all for breaking the rules too.

6. Get Planting!
We went a little seed crazy and planted more than 2-3 seeds per hole. We were getting eaten alive by mosquitoes and wanted to save our skins. So we planted quickly. (I can hear the uber frugalists screaming in horror) Sorry. It’s done. These are yellow zucchini.

Covering the seeds with organic soil rich in nutrients.

Our harvest this year should include Early Girl tomatoes, Brandywine and Black Krim heirloom tomatoes, broccoli, chard, kale, zucchini (green and yellow), peas, beans, radishes, strawberries, and a handful of savory herbs and tea flowers.

Some Early Gardening Results

So far so good. We’ve managed to keep the deer away from our kale and chard by placing plastic salad containers over the tastiest plants. These salad containers serve well as protection and have a green house effect, helping the vegetables grow faster.

The rows of tomatoes, radishes, and strawberries are doing very well.

We even have a little strawberry ready for picking. Carl is hoping to harvest the radishes this weekend or sooner.

The chamomile and lemon balm plants are growing slowly. The savory herbs are growing well though.

I can’t wait to see our final results and see if we’ve saved any money by freezing the extras.

Got any square foot or vegetable gardening tips to share? How’s your garden growing?

	397 Ways to Save Money Spend Smarter & Live Well on Less By Kerry K. Taylor

If your attic is anything like mine was, you’re probably losing expensive winter warmth and summer cooling through that seemingly innocuous square hole in your ceiling.

To stop your attic from draining your wallet, try these three easy methods to seal in LOTS of savings. These easy do-it-yourself home improvement projects cost under $100 dollars together, take only a few hours, and could save you thousands over the years you own your home. Sounds like a good investment to me. Smile.

1. Insulate Your Attic Hatch with Weather Stripping

Pick up some simple weather stripping at your local hardware store for around $5 and seal up the drafts and air leaks adding to your energy expenses. In my home I used heavy duty weather stripping to insulate between the attic hatch door and the hatch itself to seal the gap where energy escaped. I was amazed with how much cool air leaks from this point costing me big bucks.

This money saving tip works best in older homes as newer homes should already have a sealed attic. So check your attic first before hitting the hardware store. Here’s how to do-it-yourself and make your attic airtight with weather stripping:

1. Remove attic hatch. After you have purchased some inexpensive weather stripping (photo below), grab a step ladder and remove the hatch from your attic.

Our attic hatch is located in the ceiling of an upstairs hallway. Yours may be in a closet, in a room, or you may have a separate attic entrance altogether. You might want to wear a hat to prevent insulation from falling on your head.

2. Measure twice, cut once. Grab a measuring tape, a pencil, and a sense of humor and measure the length of the gap in your attic. Some people apply the weather stripping to the hatch itself while others apply to the inside area of the ceiling. (I applied it to the ceiling.)

Take your measurement and cut that length from your roll of weather stripping.

3. Remove adhesive and apply. Repeat. Gently remove the adhesive backing from your weather stripping and apply it to your attic hatch.

Repeat to seal all four edges of your attic hatch.

4. Replace attic hatch. Carefully replace your attic hatch, placing it on top of the weather stripping. You’ll instantly notice that the draft is gone and the air leaks are sealed.

You may need to sweep the floor and clean up any loose or fallen insulation.

2. Add a Foam Gasket

If your attic hatch is not already insulated on the back, grab a piece of foam board insulation at your hardware store for a few bucks to really seal the leaks in your attic. This foam board adds insulation to the back of your hatch and really seals the deal on savings. Just cut the foam board to size and attach with adhesive, making sure the attic hatch still opens easily.

I had an extra piece of fiberglass insulation, so I just placed it on top the hatch door before closing it.

3. Add More Insulation to Your Attic

Adding insulation to the attic of an older home can cut your energy expenses by 10 to 15 percent a year. This do-it-yourself project may cost more than $100, depending on how much insulation you need in your region of the world to stay warm or cool.

Before adding more insulation to your attic, you’ll need to know the R-value of what currently exists. The R-value (or RSI value for metric countries) indicates how well something resists the transfer of heat. The higher the RSI or R-value of a material, the more it will resist heat.

To find your R-Value, measure the thickness of your attic’s insulation.

For example, to achieve R-40, you need around 34 cm (13.5 inches) of fiberglass insulation. For R-50, you need about 43 cm (16.75 inches). In our attic we have a mix of fiberglass with cellulose fill on top totaling 16 inches in most areas.

The trick with R-values is the needed or required amount differs from region to country depending on the weather. To stay warm at night, check the required R-value in your area to make sure you’re getting as much insulation as you need. There’s no sense adding 5 inches of insulation to your attic if you live in the tropics.

Check the R-value for your country:

• U.S. Department of Energy
• Government of Canada ecoENERGY Program
• How to insulate your attic in a weekend

When we went from eight inches of fiberglass insulation to 16 inches, we qualified for a $300 rebate from the Government of Canada’s ecoENERGY program. There’s nothing like sealing in savings, staying warm in the winter, and collecting a rebate at the same time.

So try one, or all three, of these attic insulation methods to save hundreds each year in energy costs. Your dog may just approve.

Got any attic insulation or attic ventilation tips to share?

	397 Ways to Save Money Spend Smarter & Live Well on Less By Kerry K. Taylor

I discovered this child proofing fact after hiring a certified energy adviser through the Canadian ecoACTION program to evaluate my home. After running a few air leakage tests on my windows, doors, and walls, my energy adviser found that the electrical outlets facing the exterior walls were the biggest leaky culprits, costing me 2% to 5% in energy losses per year! Chances are, YOUR exterior electrical outlets are energy sucking leakers too!

To plug the energy drain and increase your energy efficiency, try this simple and inexpensive DIY trick using foam insulation gaskets and outlet plugs – you might just get shocked by your savings! I know my dog was stunnified!

5 EASY STEPS: how to install electrical outlet gaskets and child proof plugs!

1. Turn the power off.

Go find your circuit breaker(s) and cut the power to your exterior facing electrical outlets. Be sure to test your outlet by plugging in a lamp to see if the power is really off. Getting zapped is no fun. Seriously.

2. Remove the outlet cover.

Grab a standard flat head screwdriver and remove the electrical outlet cover. Any simple multi-bit screwdriver should have a bit that will work.

3. Grab a foam gasket.

Standard insulating foam gaskets can be purchased at your local hardware store for about 25 cents each. I got mine in a bulk package and used the whole bag for every exterior facing outlet in my home.

Just pop the center piece and screw holes out.

And then place the gasket over your outlet for maximum insulating savings.

Foam gaskets can help prevent heat from leaking outside in the winter and cool air from escaping through the outlets in the hot summer months.

4. Replace outlet cover.

Place the outlet cover over the foam gasket and use your screwdriver to, um, well, screw your cover back in place. Carl likes to line up his screws vertically so they match. He’s insane about the details. He’s insane about most things, actually.

5. Stick a child proof plug in the socket.

Child proof plugs can be bought in sets or in bulk at any hardware store. I bought a package of 24 plugs for under $4. Just grab a plug and stick it in any unused outlets.

That’s it! This simple do-it-yourself project took me less than a hour, cost me less than $20, and could save me hundreds in energy bills over the years. My silly dog Pivo is just thrilled with my savings – can’t you tell?

If you loved this tip then check out my new book – 397 Ways To Save Money and save thousands this year!

Got an energy saving trick that doesn’t break the bank?

	397 Ways to Save Money Spend Smarter & Live Well on Less By Kerry K. Taylor

Anyprettypaper, after years of spending big bucks on wrapping presents, I’ve decided to put a wrap on this needless expense. This year I’m getting creative, green, and frugal when wrapping presents for loved ones. Besides, I’d rather keep the pretty paper in the forest, on the trees.

Here are 11 frugal (and green) alternatives to wrapping presents without gift wrap:

1. Roll it in Reusable Shopping Bags

Many readers have mentioned they are wrapping their gifts in reusable shopping bags this year. The readers are smart. Reusable shopping bags reduce the number of plastic bags released into our environment and provide an awesome alternative to gift wrap. Give a gift and give it in a reusable bag.

There are many colorful reusable bags to choose from nowadays. Here’s a frugal Reusable Grocery Tote Bag 6 Combo Pack ($9.95 Amazon) in multiple colors. Split the pack and you’ve got 6 ways to wrap gifts.

2. Swaddle it in Baby Blankets

If you’ve got a new parent on your gift list, try swaddling holiday baby presents in a receiving blanket. Very creative, and very helpful to new moms and dads.

3. Can it in Cookie Tins

Who doesn’t have a few cookie tins laying around the house? Get gifty this year by placing presents in a simple can. Vintage cookie tins make especially nifty gifties.

4. Put a Lid on it with Jars

Give a homemade gift in a jar. If you’re not into giving food then place toys or other smaller items in a jar, then put a lid on it.

5. Drape it in Fabric

Use leftover sewing notions to drape gifts in fabric. Add some ribbon and you’re good to give.

6. Bag it in Reused Gift Bags

Re-gift those gift bags and see if you get yours back next year. Snicker.

7. Tie it in a Scarf

Giving a warm winter hat with a pair of gloves? Tie it in a scarf to complete the set!

8. Crate it in a Jewel Box

If you’re giving something small, try placing it in an old ring box. So pretty.

9. Dress it in Wallpaper

Use your wallpaper scraps to dress up holiday gifts.

10. Wrap it in Used Gift Paper

Get some crinkled gift paper and wrinkle it some more. The extra folds and wrinkles give it an intentionally disheveled feel.

11. Pack it in Painted Postal Parcel Paper

Go postal with some simple brown postage paper and add some painted stripes. Get the kids to draw designs with markers, paints, or crayons.

For stripes, I often paint random and uneven lines to give it the homemade look. If you’re into perfection, here’s how to paint perfect stripes.

There are so many ways to put a wrap on gift paper. Got any other gift wrapping ways to add to this list?

	397 Ways to Save Money Spend Smarter & Live Well on Less By Kerry K. Taylor